ANDREA INCONTRI / fashiontiMes.it 25.09.2013

Andrea Incontri Spring-Summer 2014 | Milan Fashion Week

L’ispirazione per questa nuova collezione Primavera-Estate 2014 arriva direttamente dalla concretezza e dalla nobiltà della disciplina sportiva del nuoto e del tuffo. Il corpo di questa donna proposta da Andrea Incontri è invasa dalla sensualità languida del fluido, che come se fosse sospesa in aria, avanza sulla passerella esternando tutta la sua femminilità.

La sua purezza rende la sua bellezza acerba, appena nata, che conquista subito ogni senso umano. Le linee della collezione sono rigorosamente pulite e leggere: gli abiti hanno origine per sottrazione in dettaglio architettonico e scoprono il corpo per accentuare la sensualità e l’immaginazione carnale.

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Andrea Incontri Spring-Summer 2014

I tessuti utilizzati per realizzare questa collezione suscitano contrasto tra rigidità e morbidezza: sono presenti tessuti strutturati come il gazar e l’organza, che non rinunciano alle trasparenze sensuali; il neoprene, che segue ed è aderente alle linee del corpo femminile come se fosse una sorta di seconda pelle; a quest’ultimo si affiacano tessuti più fluidi e cadenti come la georgette.

Nuotatrici di altri tempi sono raffigurate tramite stampe e ricami preziosi di cristalli colorati e le corsie delle piscine sono simulate da linee rette, tratteggiate o piene. Vi è anche la stampa anemone, che prende vita dal movimento circolare che simula il classico vortice dell’aria e dell’acqua: il fiore si alterna con fantasie e stampe che rammentano nutatrici, dando così vita alle cosidette creazioni in scuba.

Gonne e coulotte anatomiche sono ornate ed arricchite da lacci e da nastri; a tinta unita, invece sono presenti twin-set e coulotte, realizzate in maglia di seta. Si portano mini visoni rasati e lavorati a rilievo con decoro nuotatrici, come accapatoii a bordo vasca.

La gamma cromatica è molto delicata e naturale: arancio, nero, azzurro cielo, azzurro piscina, cipria e sabbia. Vi è un riguardo e un’attenzione particolare anche negli accessori: come calzature troviamo le scarpe open toe in duchesse colorata, con stringhe in gros-grain color pastello e i sandali baby jane, aventi una fascia in pelle, rinchiusa graziosamente in un morbido e fluido nodo in duchesse, con colori a contrasto.

Per quanto riguarda alle borse, vi è un rigore e una rigidezza assoluta: doctor bag, varie forme a cesta e beauty case dal volume particolarmente ridotto con zip e manici; tutte nelle fantasie e nei colori della collezione. N.F.

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Andrea Incontri Spring-Summer 2014

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