ANDREA INCONTRI / ilGiornaledelLUSSO.it 25.09.2013

La femminilità torna di moda

Le passerelle di Milano laboratorio di un nuovo codice di seduzione

In attesa di vedere cosa andrà di scena a Parigi, dove la teatralità si sostituisce alla sveltezza (a volte fin troppa) delle passerelle milanesi e si sacrifica l’utilità dell’abito sull’altare della creatività, ci sono alcuni dati interessanti su cui vale la pena di riflettere a conclusione della Milano Fashion Week primavera/estate 2014.

Il primo è che la polemica sembra essere passata di moda. Il calendario delle sfilate, pur essendo stato definito piuttosto in ritardo (ossia a meno di una settimana dall’inizio della manifestazione) non ha fatto scoppiare nessuna guerra fashionista. Compresso in sei giorni, dato che il settimo era di fatto inutile, ha visto la giusta alternanza tra big, brand di nicchia e nuovi nomi che hanno rinfrescato l’immagine di un Made in Italy che rischiava d somigliare troppo all’elenco dei musei di moda italiani. E perfino alla fine degli show, quando perfino il più misurato degli stilisti non manca di lanciare qualche frecciatina alla collega che fa tendenza, tutto è sembrato filare liscio.

Immagine

[…] Di una bellezza naturale, come se si fosse appena alzata dal letto è la donna di Andrea Incontri. Di fronte ad un parterre sempre più ricco, la sua terza collezione femminile è prosegue il racconto di uno spirito di donna che non deve esibire, non sente la necessità di dimostrare. Non a caso un giorno dopo la sfilata Franca Sozzani indossava già uno degli abiti della primavera/estate 2014 fresco di passerella. Andrea Incontri lavora sulla leggerezza, al punto che accanto ai fiori compare la stampa di sottili tuffatrici. La sua moda, come lo sport, è fatta di misura, compostezza, rigore e sofisticata sensualità. Che sia una tunica lunga o un bermuda, l’impressione resta la stessa. […]

Andrea VIGNERI

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